
The Appalachian Trail (“AT”) was conceived by Benton Mackaye, one of America’s great naturalists. In 1922 he published an article in the New York Evening Post titled, ”A Great Trail from Maine to Georgia!” Work on the trail began shortly thereafter and was completed in the 1930′s. The trail now stretches 2,179 miles from Springer Mountain, Georgia to Mount Katahdin, Maine. The trail has a mystical quality – a thin strip of cleared ground running along the tops of Appalachian ridges, evoking thoughts of limitless freedom and celebrating the glorious notion that a man can carry everything he needs on his back. The entire route is marked with 2″x6″ white paint blazes, and almost everyone who has set foot on the trail and navigated by those blazes has considered hiking the AT’s entire length. Very few ever will.
I was eleven years old the first time I set foot on the AT. My parents volunteered to chaperone some high schoolers on a church trip to the North Georgia mountains, and I got to go along. While my parents shuttled cars and set up camp at the end of our route, I got to hike with the big kids. It was late fall in all its majesty - a chromatic canopy, crisp air, azure skies and sublime views. I consorted with God as I walked amidst the trail’s white oaks, streams and stones. It has been 30 years, and my soul craves it still.
I’ve had many opportunities to hike on that AT since that initial trip, and have covered much of the AT’s length in Georgia. I’ve also hiked a few sections in Tennessee and Virginia, but I have to take the trail in small bites, never more than a couple of nights at a time. I crave more, but life hasn’t permitted that yet. I do have a new ally in my quest – my oldest son joined the Boy Scouts this past year and recently turned 12. I’ve been delighted that he shares my enthusiasm for the woods, and this past weekend I introduced him to the pull of the white blaze.
One of the challenges of hiking the trail in sections is that the trail doesn’t loop – forcing hikers to either shuttle cars to the end of the trail section, or to backtrack, which cuts against the grain of the AT – which is appealing in part because it takes you somewhere. Some years ago I discovered a loop created by intersections of the Benton MacKaye Trail (“BMT”) and the AT. The BMT, obviously named in honor of the AT’s founder, stretches 300 miles from Spring Mountain to Davenport Gap, Tennessee. By using the BMT and AT together, a hiker can enjoy sections of each without having to walk back over the same ground.

Jack and I had been planning the trip for weeks, but the weather forecast grew increasingly grim as the day approached. My wife and mother gently inquired as to whether we still intended to go – “yes,” I said, “we’re prepared.” So, despite temperatures in the 30′s and rain, we headed out on Saturday morning. I’ve been described as “quietly persistent.” I’m not obstinate in obvious ways, but when I decide to do a thing, I generally do it.
The AT’s trailhead is surprisingly remote. Many hikers who set out to hike the AT are chagrined to learn that there is no building, no grand gate or sendoff at the trail’s beginning point. In fact, the trailhead is only accessible by foot over one of a couple of trail spurs. The most popular approach is an 8.5 mile trail that starts at Amicalola Falls State Park, but there is also a parking area less than a mile away from the trailhead. The parking area is less popular because it is accessible only by a difficult to find 6.5 mile Forest Service Road.* Saturday morning as Jack and I drove up the slippery dirt Road, the weather grew worse.

During the drive, I asked Jack if he wanted to push on through the weather, and was gratified that he said yes. He had a shiny new backpack full of gear that he was eager to use, so it wasn’t a tough sell. It was 38 degrees, and water seemed to ooze from the air rather than fall from the sky. We were driving through a cloud.
At the parking area we donned our gear and pulled on our packs. We encountered a group of day hikers as we started to make our ascent up Springer Mountain, and they warned us that the shelter was already full. (there’s a shelter not far from the summit). I told them that we had no intention of stopping there, and they seemed both confused and concerned. We kept climbing.
Springer is one of the few Georgia mountains that wasn’t logged in the 20th century. Consequently, it hosts mature trees and has a different feel than many of the other Georgia hills. Long icicles were forming on the rocks forming a steep wall along the side of the trail, but I didn’t want to expose my camera to the elements so they went unphotographed.
At the top of Springer, there were no azure skies, no majestic views. We couldn’t see more than 30 yards in any direction, but the rain held up long enough for us to take a few pictures of the trail monuments. I shook Jack’s hand and congratulated him for making it to such a significant spot.

We had to backtrack a few hundred yards to descend from Springer and reach the intersection of the BMT. We veered east at the intersection of the trails, and began to follow the white diamond blazes of the BMT. The rain persisted, and I noticed that Jack wasn’t wearing his rain paints. We stopped and got him situated, which was one of my better decisions on the day. The rain picked up after that and his pants would have been intolerably soaked if we hadn’t stopped.
We talked a bit as we walked, but mostly just walked. Jack has a steady gait for a 12-year-old. Even in the rain, there was a beauty to the woods. After 90 minutes or so I pulled out my map and compass and was surprised to see that we were already headed west, indicating that we had completed a lengthy curve in the BMT (see the map). I was completely dependent on my compass for direction because there was no sun. We pressed on, and I was confident that we could reach our destination before nightfall, the camping area at Three Forks. I wanted to avoid hiking or setting up camp in the dark.
Some time later we intersected the Forest Service Road that had taken us to the parking area. I pulled out my map and compass again to take a bearing. It didn’t make any sense – the road should have been behind us, but it was ahead. I noted with dismay that if we were just then reaching the road, we weren’t nearly as far along as I thought. But none of that squared with what my compass was telling me. I was losing either my mind or my orienteering skills, and neither of those was particularly dispensable. Ultimately, I trusted the blazes rather than my calculations and we kept moving ahead.
I normally shed a layer or two once I get a couple of miles into a trail, but on Saturday I left on all my layers – even my gloves. My one concession was that I’d occasionally take off my hat to vent. After walking for an impressively long time, Jack asked how far we were from camp. I wasn’t particularly keen on telling him that I couldn’t figure out where we were, so I said “not far.” I occasionally pulled out the map, but it was beginning to deteriorate badly in the rain and I feared its complete disintegration if I didn’t use it sparingly. 5:00 approached, and I had no sense of how close we were to camp.
One of benefits of backpacking is that we were carrying everything we needed, so I wasn’t overly concerned, but there are relatively few level spots to pitch a tent in the mountains. I’d been to Three Forks before and knew it offered ample level space. At 5:45 we stopped and put on our head lamps. Shortly thereafter we hit one of the AT intersections that I was looking for as a landmark and I pulled out my map. Again, the intersection didn’t make any sense. According to my compass, the intersection was on the wrong side of the trail. But I trusted the blazes and we pressed on. Finally, when I’m sure Jack was tempted to despair, we reached camp. He had walked over seven miles in 30 degree temperatures and rain with very little complaint. I was a proud dad. Mercifully, the rain stopped as we entered the camp.
We were alone there. No other souls were hearty or foolish enough to venture into the woods that night. We set up the tent and moved 40 yards away to prepare our meal. I’ve had the privilege of eating fine meals the world over, but nothing tastes so good as freeze-dried lasagna after a day of walking in the cold rain. Jack ate like a man twice his size. He’d earned it, he’d been carrying a pack that was 1/3 of his body weight.

I taught Jack to hang a “bear bag.” We put anything with scent in a bag and hoisted it well off the ground. The need for a bear bag is more than academic for me. Years ago, in the Smokey Mountains, I’d hung a bear bag too low to the ground and woke to a large black bear consuming the food I’d planned to eat for the next couple of days. I’ve been far more cautious since then.

Before we entered the tent, I asked Jack to give me his compass. I put his next to mine and the mystery was explained – I had not lost my mind or my skills. My compass had been reverse polarized, it was pointing straight south. I’d used that Silva Type 2 compass for over 25 years and it had always been reliable. I suspect that it was affected by the multi-tool I’d recently started putting in a pouch with the compass. I contacted Silva when I returned, and they told me it was warranted for life. They are sending me another.
Jack took off his damp clothes and put on a couple warm, dry layers from his pack before settling into his 20 degree bag. He quickly fell asleep. My chief complaint about the trail is that I never sleep well. I have a fancy mattress and try to pick soft ground, but I lack a talent for sleeping in even the best of circumstances. During one of the many times I woke through the night, I was alarmed at the plummeting temperature. I pulled my head inside my mummy bag, and was pleased to hear Jack sleeping soundly. These modern sleeping bags are a marvel.
When the sun rose, I pulled on my layers and emerged from the tent. I didn’t have a thermometer, but I’d guess that the temperature was around 20. I wasn’t concerned about cooking near the tent because we were about to move on (the normal concern is attracting animals), so I started to warm water on the backpacking stove just outside the door. Jack began to stir and I wanted to give him something hot once he came outside. As he emerged, it started to snow.

Three Forks is a beautiful spot where streams intersect. I wanted to enjoy the place and take some pictures. Just after I took the pictures below, Jack said, “Dad, I’m cold. I mean really cold.” I knew that we needed to get moving, so I let him warm his hands by the stove while I packed up our gear.


A mile or so into our walk I tried to take a drink from my Camelback reservoir, but the tube was frozen solid. I reached for my backup Nalgene bottle and the lid was frozen shut. I had to warm it with my hands before I opened it and took a few sips of the water. It was refreshingly cool.

The snow picked up. I much preferred it to the rain, despite the colder temperatures. The snow muffled any sounds and the forest took on a surreal quiet.

It was Sunday morning, and we had a peripatetic worship service. I quoted sections of scripture that I’d memorized with Jack’s mom years ago.
O Lord, you have searched me and you know me. You know when I sit and when I rise; you perceive my thoughts from afar…
Where can I go from your spirit? Where can I flee from your presence? If I go up to the heavens, you are there; if I make my bed in the depths, you are there…even there your hand will guide me, your right hand will hold me fast…
For you created my inmost being; you knit me together in my mother’s womb. I praise you because I am fearfully and wonderfully made; your works are wonderful, I know that full well.
Psalm 139

We stayed off the BMT and walked back along the AT in the snow and the quiet. The AT offered a more direct route back to the parking area, so we reached it fairly quickly. The walk had warmed us up, and we were both a little sad to reach the end. The car thermometer read 23.

I’m back in Atlanta now, looking out from the 21st floor over a climate controlled city that is anything but quiet. I don’t think of myself as the guy in the office. I think of myself as the guy pictured below, posing next to the first white blaze on the AT. I’m warm and dry now, but remember with longing our walk through the woods where divine words mingled with soft footfalls in the snow.

*The parking area on the Forest Service Road is hard to find. Here are some decent directions for those interested -
Travel east (toward Blairsville, GA) on GA Hwy 515, approx. 0.8 miles past intersection with GA Hwy 5. Turn Right at Windy Ridge Rd., go 0.2 miles to dead end with Old U.S. 76. Turn left, go 0.2 miles to Aska Road. South on Aska Road to end (13.5 miles). Turn right onto Newport Road, go 4.5 miles to end. Turn right onto Doublehead Gap Road, go 2.0 miles to USFS road 42 on left. Turn left onto USFS 42, drive 7.3 miles east to AT crossing near Cross Trails.